Renate 'Renny' Flanagan — Freelance Writer for Travel and Washington, DC Local Insider Tips

In previous visits to Spain I had explored the Andalucía region in the south, as well as a separate road trip in the western portion of the country. Upon discovering that my local airport offered direct flights to Madrid, I was eager to explore the central part of the country and venture outside the capital. When planning a trip, I like to pick a theme for the adventure. The theme of central Spain was “see old stuff and eat a lot of pork.” With a Roman aqueduct built in the first century and the local dish of cochinillo, roasted suckling pig, Segovia did not disappoint.

How to Get There

Located an hour drive from Madrid, Segovia is convenient and well worth a visit as part of a road trip around central Spain. Like many smaller cities or towns, the roads are narrow and there are a lot of car free zones. We located a 24-hour parking garage just outside the historic city center which allowed us to park in a modern parking garage with reasonably sized parking spaces without having to deal with the stress of navigating in a historic city that was planned before the existence of cars.

If you’re not comfortable driving, Segovia is well connected by bus networks. To my toddlers delight, there was a steady stream of buses dropping off passengers right outside the famed aqueduct.

What to See

The Old Town of Segovia is considered a UNESCO World Heritage site along with the aqueduct. The town is compact and walkable. Surrounding the town are numerous walking trails along the river that give stunning views looking up at the castle, Alcázar de Segovia. Access the walking trails by going to Paseo del Eresma, a 1.2 mile (2km) walk from the aqueduct.

Experience the aqueduct from different angles, including ascending the stairs at the main plaza to get a view from above as well as the mountains on the horizon. Walk just outside the Old Town on the other side of the acqueduct to get a view of the aqueduct from up a hill and visit the statue of the devil staking a selfie with the aqueduct. The statue is a reference to the local legend that the devil constructed the city’s aqueduct.

Where to Eat

Segovia’s local dish is cochonillo, or roasted suckling pig. The meat is so tender that the waiters “carve” the pig with the edge of a plate, instead of using a knife. While a suckling pig is a small pig, it’s still a large portion of food. I had to ask the waiter if ordering the cochonillo meant you were ordering the entire pig. To save you from having to ask, the answer is no. You will only get part of the pig.

For lunch we went to Jose Maria’s which is famous in the city for it’s suckling pig. The restaurant gets busy so make sure to make a reservation in advance. If you are traveling with a toddler, like we were, there is a playground conveniently located around the corner to let your little one run off some energy before sitting down for a meal.

If suckling pig isn’t your thing, or you’ve already checked that box and want to sample more of the local cuisine, we had dinner at Restaurante El Bernardino. While they do have suckling pig on the menu, we diversified our pork experience and ordered jamón ibérico, the traditional Spanish cured ham delicacy. If you are a fan of prosciutto, jamón ibérico is even more decadent. We also tried Judiones de la Granja con su matanza, a white bean dish that was a hit with my toddler. If the weather is nice you can sit outside and the outside seating is beside a mirador, or viewpoint, of the city and mountains. We find outdoor seating to be the most convenient option with a toddler to give him space to roam around without disturbing other diners or interfering with the wait staff.

A Must-See Day Trip While Visiting Madrid

While researching road trip stops or day-trips from Madrid, Toledo got all the hype. I found Segovia to be a more interesting city to visit than Toledo. The aqueduct is the epitome of photogenic and the extensive trail network added an unexpected charm to experiencing the city. If you only have time for one day-trip during a visit to Madrid, Segovia earns the spot.